A Coast Built for Wildlife

Whitby sits at the mouth of the Esk, and the coastline either side of the harbour is among the most rewarding in England for watching marine life. To the south, dark alum shale cliffs run down through Saltwick Nab and Kettleness, then on past Ravenscar towards the long wall of Boulby. To the north, the land rises through Sandsend and Upgang towards Hunt Cliff. These are hard, layered, restless cliffs, pounded by the North Sea and broken into ledges and crevices — precisely what seals and seabirds need. The water stays cold and rich in fish, so from early spring the whole stretch becomes busy with wings, whiskers and noise.

You do not need a boat to enjoy it, though a boat helps. A decent pair of binoculars, sensible timing and a bit of patience will get you a long way.

Grey Seals: Rocks, Noses and the Pupping Season

Grey seals are the animals most visitors hope to see, and this coast rarely disappoints. The trick is to scan the right places at the right time. At low water, look for flat rock shelves and low skerries just offshore — the reef off Saltwick Nab, the rocks around Kettleness and the outcrops near Ravenscar are all worth a look. Seals hauled out often lie in loose, scattered groups, and because their mottled grey coats match wet stone, they can be surprisingly hard to spot. Look for the "banana" shape: head and tail lifted, belly resting on rock.

Both grey seals and the smaller harbour (common) seals occur here. Grey seals have a long, Roman-nosed profile with parallel nostrils; harbour seals have a shorter, rounder face and V-shaped nostrils. If you are close enough to check nostrils, you are too close — use binoculars instead.

Timing matters. Seals tend to haul out as the tide rises and slip back into the water as it falls, so an hour or two either side of high water over rocky ground is usually most productive. Pupping seasons differ by species: harbour seals generally give birth in early summer, while grey seals pup from late autumn into winter. Mothers leave pups on shore while they feed at sea, and a lone pup is not an abandoned one. Never approach, never handle, and keep dogs on a short lead.

Puffins, Gannets and the Cliff Colonies

The breeding season on these cliffs runs roughly from March to August, and the noise is extraordinary once it gets going. Kittiwakes are the great success story of the Yorkshire coast — small, neat gulls with black wingtips and a call that sounds exactly like their name. They build precarious nests of grass and mud on the narrowest ledges, and a cliff face in June can hold thousands of them.

Alongside them you will find guillemots and razorbills, standing upright on bare rock, and fulmars gliding past on stiff, straight wings. Atlantic puffins — barely bigger than a pigeon — arrive from late March and leave again by late July or early August. They nest in burrows and crevices, and while a few pairs cling on around Whitby's cliffs, the real spectacle lies a short trip south at Flamborough Head and Bempton, where the numbers are far greater.

Gannets are the giants of the group, with a wingspan approaching two metres and a pale, yellow-washed head. You will see them offshore, flying low and purposeful, and if you are lucky you will catch one plunge-diving — folding, dropping and hitting the water like a spear from a considerable height.

Watching from Land and from the Water

• Cliff-top paths: the Cleveland Way gives you long views over the ledges. Walk south from Whitby Abbey towards Saltwick Nab, or north towards Sandsend. Stay well back from the edge, especially on soft, crumbling shale after rain.
• Boat trips: a short trip out of Whitby harbour along the cliffs gets you beneath the colonies rather than above them, which is often the best angle for seabirds and seals alike. Choose a small, licensed operator and ask what they do to avoid disturbing wildlife.
• The harbour itself: don't overlook it. Herring gulls, cormorants and the occasional seal popping up beside the piers are a good warm-up before you head for the cliffs.
• Early mornings: light is best, winds are often lighter, and wildlife is less disturbed before the crowds arrive.

How to Watch Without Causing Harm

This coast is a working landscape for wildlife, not a theme park, and small choices make a real difference. Keep at least 100 metres from seals on shore, and further if they start lifting their heads or shuffling towards the water — that is a disturbance response. Never come between a seal and the sea. Avoid landing on rocky outcrops where seals are hauled out, and keep drone use well away from cliffs during the breeding season. On cliff paths, keep dogs on leads between March and August and stick to marked routes; a flushed colony can lose eggs and chicks in minutes.

Take litter home, including fishing line, which tangles birds and seals badly. If you find a pup or an injured bird, do not intervene yourself — report it to the local wildlife rescue or harbour authority.

Planning Your Visit

Late spring and early summer give you the fullest picture: seabird colonies at their peak, long daylight hours and seals active on the rocks. Bring binoculars, a windproof layer and footwear with grip — the cliff paths are muddy and slippery even in dry spells. Check tide tables before you set out, as some of the best foreshore viewpoints are cut off by a fast-rising tide. And build in time: the best sightings on this coast come to those who settle in, get comfortable and simply watch the water.